October 24, 2012 We walk past Sumpango’s tree-packed central park into the two-story concrete marketplace - our driver César, my husband Dale, and I. Market women wave desultory hands or fans made of sticks and plastic bags over displays of raw meat, homemade soup,...
Guatemala
The Mannequin Saint and the Flower Assault – Guatemala at the End of Mayan Days (Part 4)
Oct 24, 2012 When we arrive at the Chapel of San Simón in the town of San Andrés Itzapa, it’s as if we’ve arrived at Guatemala’s own Graceland. The difference is that few tourists come here, only believers. Our guide, César, doesn’t speak English, so I have to...
Where Coffee Comes From – Guatemala at the End of Mayan Days (Part 3)
October 23, 2012 A converted flatbed takes us on a 15-minute drive outside of Antigua to the oldest coffee plantation in Guatemala. Finca Filadelfia (Philadelphia Plantation) is a pretty, well-ordered farm and resort, where sun-warmed green trees and saffron ranch...
What Am I Afraid Of? – Guatemala at the End of Mayan Days (Part 2)
October 22, 2012 Right before I wake, I dream that I walk out of our hotel and see an armored truck full of armed men driving down the street. One of the men jumps out and executes a woman, point blank. The shots blow her head back, spraying blood onto the wall of one...
It’s Not Mexico – Guatemala at The End of Mayan Days (Part 1)
October 21, 2012 Dale and I are not trying to mark the end of an age. When I planned this trip to Guatemala, the Mayan calendar's expiration date of December 21, 2012 wasn’t on my mind. I just hoped for a safer alternative to our favorite budget destination, Mexico,...